The City's Local Dinning (Denpasar)

Jl. Teuku Umar, which eventually joins Jl. Imam Bonjol, the road to Kuta, is a location of well-established warung, rumah makan, and restaurants serving Indonesian, Oriental and Balinese specialties at very reasonable prices. The city's densest concentration of Indonesian-style eating establishments. Kumbasari Shopping Complex, just off Jl. Gajah Mada by the river. Open 1800-2400. Dozens of stalls under plastic covers serve Chinese noodle soups, fried rice, sate, excellent martabak, babi guling, nasi campur, pangsit mie, chocolate donuts and nasi jinggo.

Other "pasar malam" include the Kereneng bus station (the Asoka Night Market), serving excellent babi guling (only Rp9000) and other native dishes; opposite Tegal station (where you catch minivans to Kuta); and on Jl. Diponegoro near the Kertha Wijaya Shopping Center. All are good, cheap, entertaining night eateries that are so inexpensive only a glutton could possibly spend more than Rp8000.